Beyond the basic structure of studs and plates, a door may also be built into an interior wall. A door frame will include king and jack studs to support the sides, and a header and cripple studs to support the weight over the opening. A frame should be built to accommodate a door with the soleplate in place for stability, the plate can then be cut out after construction is complete.
See this link for more about framing for a new door. If a new partition wall will be built perpendicular to the ceiling joists, you can choose any placement that suits your purposes. If you must build the new wall parallel with the joists, try to place it aligned with an existing joist so the top plate can be nailed directly to it.
Otherwise, parallel placement will require the addition of 2x4 blocking between the existing joists to provide framing to attach the top plate.
To install new blocking, access to the joists will be required, which may be difficult in some cases. Mark the location for the new wall measuring from the existing wall on the other side of the room. Measure from both ends and mark the ceiling where the new top plate will be. Stretch a chalked string between the two marks and snap it to outline the location for the top plate across the ceiling.
Hold a plumb bob on the line at both ends to find the corresponding points on the floor. Mark the floor at these points and snap a chalked string to mark the location for the new soleplate across the floor. Measure the length for the new wall.
Also, measure the height of the ceiling in several places along the length of this space. In most cases the ceiling height will vary slightly along the length of a room. Find the shortest measurement from floor to ceiling and build your new frame to this height. Determine the number of studs required to build the wall by dividing the length measurement by 16 inches.
For a 10 foot wall, 7 interior studs will be needed, plus 2 end studs, for a total of nine. If your ceiling measurement is 8 feet or less, you can use 8 foot lumber for the studs.
If the height is over 8 feet, which is more likely, use 10 foot lumber for the studs. Take the wall length measurement to choose boards for the top and soleplate. Two-by-fours are available from 8 feet, to over 20 feet long so choose boards that are a bit longer than the length you need and cut them down to size. If you're adding a door to the wall, you'll also need to calculate for the king and jack studs, as well as building the header when buying lumber.
Cut the top and soleplates to the measured length of the new wall. Take the shortest ceiling measurement, subtract 3 inches for the thickness of the two plates, and cut all the studs to this length. After you finish the framing, refer to the links above right for the techniques used for cutting and attaching drywall or paneling. To begin, mark the center line of the new wall across the ceiling. Snap a chalk line between these marks.
Carefully measure where each wall stud will go and mark perpendicular lines across the plates, using a combination square so the studs will align perfectly. If the new wall runs parallel to the joists, fasten the plate to nailing blocks installed between the joists. Nail the plate with 3-inch nails staggered and spaced every 16 inches. Lift the stud into position and line it up on its mark, flush with the edges of the top and bottom plates. Where one wall intersects another, double up studs to receive the intersecting wall.
Use the Speed Square to transfer the marks from one plate to the other plate. For a concrete floor, fasten the bottom plate, which should be a pressure-treated 2-by-4, to the floor with concrete nails using a powder-actuated nail gun.
For wood floor systems, attach the bottom plate to the floor with a hammer and nails. Drive the nails by hand directly through the two-by-four, then the floor covering, and into the joist. The lumber for this application does not need to be pressure treated. The top plate must be directly above the bottom plate. It must be connected across perpendicular ceiling joists or directly on one joist. Use the laser level plumb function to ensure that the top plate is directly above the bottom plate.
Nail it into place. Move the electric miter saw nearby. Begin with one stud at the end. Measure from the top of the floor plate to the bottom of the ceiling plate.
Transfer this measurement to a stud, then cut this stud with the saw. Continue in this fashion down the rest of the wall. Number each stud and plate position 1,2,3, etc. With the hammer , toenail each stud into its corresponding position. Toenailing is a process in which screws or nails are driven sideways into the upright stud through to the bottom or top plate.
Begin by driving the nail in straight until it grabs the stud, then angle it upwards to about 60 degrees and drive it all the way in. Hang the drywall horizontally on the studs, one above the other. Fasten the sheets to the studs with the cordless drill and drywall screws. Ordinarily, drywall ends should break, or stagger, over the framing to avoid four corners meeting in one spot. With this project, though, two full sheets of drywall are used, rendering it unnecessary to break the ends.
If you were to build a longer wall, you should break the ends in a staggered fashion. Use the drywall knife to fill the screw holes with joint compound. With this wall, there will be two 8-foot-long drywall seams.
Finish the drywall by embedding the paper joint tape in joint compound laid along the seam. Cover with more joint compound. Do not exceed the space of the seam.
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